TRANSYLVANIA?  REALLY?

Yes, really.  Who doesn’t love horse-drawn carts, hearty cuisine, Dracula vibes, Medieval fortresses, German old towns, stunning green mountains, and even a subterranean theme park? Enjoy Romania in the best spots in the whole land.

Despite a wealth of memorable sights, Transylvania somehow hasn’t yet grown into a mainstream tourist destination. That makes Romania’s central region one of Europe’s last hidden gems. In addition, it is a destination that gives you a luxury experience for much less of your money.  We think it’s only a matter of time before tourists find this hidden gem. So read on about this beautiful country and then plan your trip!

SUGGESTED TRANSYLVANIA ITINERARY 

If you’re up for a road trip (which I highly recommend in Romania) this is a great driving itinerary and give you a good taste of the region.  It works well as a loop for a 1-week trip, but you can probably fit most of this into 5 days if you’re an intense traveler. As the map shows, the loop focuses on the center of the country.

I recommend clients do the loop clockwise from Cluj Napoca which has direct flights to London. But you can also start in the capital Bucharest with a few more hours of driving to account for. Sibiu is another airport city to look into.

THE MEDIEVAL GEM OF BRAȘOV

Best remembered for its Hollywood-like sign overlooking the city from the steep hill above, Brașov was LTA’s favorite Romanian city. With its stunning and large old town, lush hilly backdrops, and just a very welcoming atmosphere, Brasov proved a great base for a few days.

As you wander through the town, make sure to find one of the narrowest streets in the world, Strada Sforii. Then on a finer day take a cable car up to the green hills above where the big “BRASOV” sign is to get a stunning panoramic view. And you’ll struggle to miss the Black Church (Biserica Neagră). Another legacy of German times and one of the most beautiful examples of Gothic architecture you’ll find.

If you’re not keen on a road trip, Brașov would serve as a great base for your Transylvania trip. And if you’re starting in Bucharest it’s just over 3 hour’s train ride away.

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FORTIFIED CHURCH VILLAGES OF VISCRI & BIERTAN

Times were tough back in the Middle Ages for the villages that were too small to build castles and fortresses. So, they fortified their churches instead. This left a special legacy for the lucky few tourists who venture out on the rugged roads to the few villages where they remain perfectly intact.

A couple of the best options (pick one) are the villages of Viscri and a very German-sounding Biertan. And the reason it sounds German is that they were built by many German settlers (Saxons). Just like plenty of Transylvania’s fortified old towns. After visiting the fortifications, you can enjoy a traditional homemade meal in the home of a local (which sort of still count itself as a restaurant).

SIGHIȘOARA: VLAD DRACUL’S BIRTH TOWN

No one will know for sure now, but allegedly the infamous Vlad Dracul was born in Sighișoara. His birth house was turned into a tourist trap restaurant called Casa Vlad Dracul. Vlad or not, the beautifully scenic town of Sighișoara is full of well-preserved medieval architecture and cute cobbled streets with colorful houses. It’s a small town and you can see everything in a day. But, is worth spending a night at least for the spooky walk in the dark!

PELEȘ CASTLE

As far as castles go, the overhyped Bran Castle (which pretty much has nothing to do with Dracula) was a tourist-conveyor-belt kind of disappointment. Peleș Castle, on the other hand, impressed even the more castle-numb tourist like myself. Both for its green, mountainous surroundings and its Neo-Renaissance architecture. It’s really more of a palace than a castle. And if you have interest and patience for that sort of thing then get a tour of the countless lavishly decorated rooms. It’s overwhelmingly posh. If that’s not your thing, just go for a scenic walk in the area and enjoy the Carpathian views.

FAGARAȘ MOUNTAINS AND TRANSFAGARAȘAN ROAD

If you drive down from the North side, the Fagaraș mountain range opens up dramatically in full view to contrast the vast green plains you’re approaching from. 

Home to the now-famous Transfagarașan Road with its countless serpentines, it makes for one of the most stunning drives you’ll enjoy on an asphalted road. At least that’s what they say… but beware the top section can stay closed off due to snow through May.  Seems it’s only open from June until September and even that’s not 100% guaranteed.

The alternative, then, is a cable car up to the glacial Lake Balea at the top of the pass.

Not interested in the cable car?  A solid plan B  is a lovely hike through the evergreen forest to Balea Waterfall. That takes around 45 minutes on average. Fagaraș mountain range offers many more hiking options too, with the most popular being along its dramatic sharp ridges reaching up to 8,200 feet.

SIBIU – THE CITY OF EYES

The city of Sibiu, known for its eye-like rooftops, has attic windows that give you the feeling that you’re always being watched. Eyes aside, Sibiu has a lot going for it culturally and gastronomically and has so much Saxon history that at times it’s hard not to feel like you’re strolling through an old Bavarian Stadt instead. And, it also has a fabulous Christmas Market if you choose to brave the Romanian winter. 

TURDA SALT MINES: AN UNDERGROUND THEME PARK

Where else in the world can you find an active subterranean amusement park?! Intrigued by the idea of rowing a boat 320 ft below ground in an abandoned salt mine? Be sure to add this little gem to your itinerary. Salina Turda is by no means a world-class theme park nor does it pretend to be. But it will most certainly leave an impression and is a great place to hide from the summer heat as the temperature is pretty much an ever-constant 53 degrees (so do bring a jacket!)

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CLUJ NAPOCA: ROMANIA’S LITTLE HUNGARY

The lively city of Cluj is a great option to start or end your trip, served by a decent number of low-cost flights. Thanks to a large student population it has a young, buzzing vibe and with plenty of outdoor spaces made us feel we spent more time seeing it. 

Once under Hungarian rule, Cluj still has a large Hungarian diaspora and you’ll find this dotted around the city centre – like the Hungarian state theatre and opera. It’s worth spending a night if you can.

 WHAT’S THE BEST TIME TO VISIT TRANSYLVANIA / ROMANIA?

June to October would be your best bet. As always in Europe, August can get scorching hot and busier so perhaps avoid if you don’t like heat. We visited in late May which was already warmish, but as we’ve learned this can be a rainy period. And the Transfagaras road is unlikely to open until June/early July due to snow high up.

WHAT’S DRIVING LIKE IN ROMANIA?

Driving is felt pretty safe despite what you might expect.  There isn’t the erratic driving seen in some parts of Southern or Eastern Europe,  other than the occasional aggressive overtake.  Do watch out for the occasional horse carts on the roads!

Most main roads are in a good condition. However, if you’re visiting some of the fortified villages or other off-the-highway destinations expect lots of potholes and far slower progress than your GPS might suggest.   We recommend a comprehensive car insurance for a driving trip like this.

HOW EXPENSIVE IS ROMANIA?

Romania is a great-value European destination.  You can quite comfortably find both premium and luxury hotel room for 50% less (or more) than other more popular European locals.  Note:  Romania is not part of the EU, so local currency is called “Lei”.

Dining out won’t damage your wallet either, but you might find the portions big!  And food quality?  Ho about a Michelin-starred chef-owned restaurant in Cluj-Napoca with incredible food at less-than-expected prices! 

LANGUAGE BARRIERS IN ROMANIA

Unlike its’ Slavic neighbors, Romanian is a Latin language with plenty of guessable words especially if you happen to speak some Italian or even Spanish.  As an alternative, most younger Romanians will understand some English so you’ll rarely struggle to be understood.

Quick tip on pronouncing words with the letter “ș”. It means “sh” so “Sighisoara” will sound like “Sigishoara”, Brasov” will be “Brashov”.

So there it is, lovely travelers.  Learning a little about Transylvania and Romania, is it still spooky?  We find it to be a wonderful European hidden gem of a region to explore, which reminds us more of Germany than an Eastern European region.  A place to have a luxury experience for less!